Stir the sugar and yeast into 40 g warm water and let it sit for 10 minutes until foamy.
Combine the remaining water with the dry ingredients and the yeast, mixing with a spatula.
Mix until no dry flour remains, then pour in the olive oil - the dough will be shaggy and wet.
Fold until the oil is absorbed and the dough becomes a sticky, elastic mass.
Cover and rest 15 minutes so the flour hydrates.
Stretch one edge up and fold over the center, turning the bowl a quarter turn each time - four folds total.
Cover and rest another 15 minutes - the dough will feel stronger.
Repeat the stretch-and-fold all the way around one final time.
Tuck into a ball and ferment in a warm spot for about 40 minutes until puffed.
Dust the surface generously and turn the dough out without deflating it.
Gently coax the dough into a rectangle with floured hands.
Fold the bottom edge up over the middle, like folding a blanket.
Fold the top edge down to overlap into a long, soft log.
Cut the log into 2 large loaves, or 4 smaller ones.
Place on a floured tray, cover, and proof 30 minutes while the oven preheats to 230°C (446°F).
After 30 minutes the loaves should be puffy, soft and slightly jiggly.
Spray the loaves and oven walls with water, then bake at 230°C (446°F) for about 20 minutes.
Bake until the crust is deep, even gold and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped.
Cool on a rack at least 20 minutes - the crust crisps as it cools. Slice and enjoy.