My father-in-law has a serious sweet tooth, but he is incredibly particular. He doesn’t care for the chewy, butter-heavy cookies often found in Western bakeries. His absolute favorite treat is Tao Su (桃酥), a traditional Chinese shortbread cookie known for its distinctively “sandy” and crumbly texture.
I developed this specific recipe with him in mind. After making a batch to share with the family, they disappeared instantly—not just by the elders, but the kids were grabbing them one after another, treating them like the ultimate snack.
While “Tao Su” is often translated as “Walnut Cookie,” this particular version is a classic, nut-free variation that relies on the structural integrity of flour and oil to create that signature crackled top. It is simple, rustic, and incredibly nostalgic.
What Are Tao Su (Chinese Shortbread)?
Tao Su are a staple in traditional Chinese bakeries. Unlike Western shortbread which relies on butter for flavor and structure, Tao Su is traditionally made with oil (often lard or peanut oil, though we are using corn oil here for a cleaner flavor) and uses a combination of leavening agents to create a texture that is described in Chinese as su (酥)—which translates to crispy, crumbly, and flaky all at once.
If you have enjoyed the sesame-coated crunch of Chinese Smiling Sesame Cookie Balls (Kai Kou Xiao), you will appreciate the texture of Tao Su. They are less about chewiness and more about that dry, melt-in-your-mouth sensation that pairs perfectly with hot tea.
About the Author & Recipe Development
I’m Lin, a chef born and raised in Sichuan. I grew up in my family’s restaurant kitchen, absorbing the practical rhythms of commercial cooking before formally training at the Sichuan Culinary Institute. Over my 10+ years in professional kitchens, I’ve learned that Chinese baking is often about precision and understanding how alkaline agents (like baking soda) interact with flour.
For this recipe, I tested the ratio of oil to flour three times. I found that using 90g of oil to 200g of flour strikes the perfect balance—enough fat to prevent gluten formation (keeping it tender) without making the cookie greasy. I also opted for corn oil over butter to maintain the authentic, neutral profile that lets the egg and toasted flour flavors shine.
Why This Recipe Works
- Scientific Texture Control: By using cake flour (low protein) instead of all-purpose flour, we minimize gluten development. This ensures the cookie crumbles rather than chews.
- Oil-Based: Using liquid oil ensures a lighter, crispier crumb compared to butter, which contains water and milk solids that can soften the cookie.
- Double Leavening: The combination of baking powder (for lift) and baking soda (for spreading and browning via the Maillard reaction) creates the signature cracked surface.
- One-Bowl Method: There is no need for creaming butter or using a stand mixer. This is a very approachable recipe for beginners.
Key Ingredients & Substitutions
- Low-Gluten Flour (Cake Flour): In Chinese, this is Di Jin Mian Fen. It has a protein content of about 7-9%.
- Substitute: If you can’t find cake flour, you can make a substitute by removing 2 tablespoons of all-purpose flour from a cup and replacing it with 2 tablespoons of cornstarch.
- Corn Oil: A neutral oil is essential.
- Substitute: Canola oil, vegetable oil, or grapeseed oil work perfectly. Avoid olive oil as the flavor is too strong.
- Sugar: We use standard white Sugar here. It aids in the crisp texture.
- Note: You can adjust the sugar slightly, but reducing it too much will affect the spread of the cookie.
- Leavening Agents: We use both Baking Powder and Baking Soda (Bicarbonate of Soda).
- Science Note: According to baking science, baking soda raises the pH of the dough, weakening the gluten and encouraging a coarser, sandier crumb, which is desirable here.
- Black Sesame Seeds: For garnish. Sesame Seeds add a nutty aroma and visual contrast against the golden egg wash.
Ingredients
- Cake Flour (Low Gluten): 1 ¾ cups + 2 tbsp (200g)
- Corn Oil: ½ cup (90g)
- Granulated Sugar: ½ cup (90g) (Adjustable, but 90g is standard for texture)
- Egg: 1 large (approx. 50g without shell)
- Baking Powder: ¾ tsp (3g)
- Baking Soda: ½ tsp (2g)
- Egg Yolk: 1 (for brushing the tops)
- Black Sesame Seeds: 1 tsp (for garnish)
Recipe Notes Before We Begin
- Measurements: I strongly recommend using a digital kitchen scale for baking. Volume measurements (cups) can vary significantly depending on how you pack the flour.
- Equipment: You will need a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
- Oven: Preheat your oven to 355°F (180°C). Ensure your oven rack is in the center position for even heat distribution.
How to Make Chinese Shortbread Cookies (Tao Su)
Step 1: Create the Wet Mixture
In a mixing bowl, combine the 90g corn oil, 1 whole egg (beaten), and 90g sugar. Use a whisk or a fork to mix vigorously until the sugar is mostly dissolved and the oil and egg are fully emulsified.
Why: Creating a stable emulsion ensures the fat is evenly distributed, which will coat the flour particles later to inhibit gluten.
Step 2: Combine Dry Ingredients
In a separate bowl or directly over your wet mixture, mix the 200g cake flour, 2g baking soda, and 3g baking powder. Sift these dry ingredients into the wet mixture.
Tip: Sifting is crucial here to prevent bitter lumps of baking soda.
Step 3: Form the Dough (The “Fold” Technique)
This is the most critical step. Using a silicone spatula or your hands, gently fold and press the flour into the liquid. Do not over-mix or knead like bread.
Expertise: You want to stop mixing the moment no dry flour is visible. Over-mixing activates gluten, which results in a tough, hard cookie rather than a crisp, “su” (crumbly) one. Just squeeze it gently into a cohesive ball.
Step 4: Shape the Cookies
Pinch off a small piece of dough (about 25-30g, the size of a walnut). Roll it into a ball between your palms. Place it on the lined baking sheet and flatten it gently with your palm or the bottom of a glass.
Note: These cookies will spread slightly, so leave about 2 inches of space between them.
Step 5: Garnish
Whisk the extra egg yolk in a small bowl. Brush a thin layer of egg yolk over the top of each flattened cookie. Sprinkle a pinch of black sesame seeds in the center.
Cultural Context: This golden glaze and black sesame top is the signature look of Tao Su found in bakeries across China.
Step 6: Bake
Place the tray in your preheated oven at 355°F (180°C). Bake for 16 minutes.
Visual Cue: The cookies are done when they have puffed slightly, the tops have a golden-brown hue, and beautiful cracks have formed on the surface.
Step 7: Cool
Remove from the oven. Allow the cookies to cool on the baking sheet for at least 10 minutes before moving them. They are very fragile when hot but will firm up as they cool.
Common Mistakes When Making Tao Su
- Overworking the Dough: If you use a mixer or knead this like you would for Savory Chinese Breakfast Pancakes, you will develop gluten. The result will be a hard, rock-like disc rather than a crumbly delight. Treat it gently.
- Skipping the Sifting: Small clumps of baking soda taste soapy and metallic. Always sift.
- Using Bread Flour: High protein flour is great for Homemade Meat Floss buns, but it will ruin the texture of these cookies. Stick to cake flour.
Serving Suggestions
These cookies are dry and crumbly, designed to be eaten with a drink. They pair beautifully with hot jasmine tea or warm soy milk. For a traditional Chinese breakfast or afternoon snack spread, you could serve these alongside a bowl of Red Bean and Black Rice Porridge. The creamy porridge contrasts perfectly with the crisp cookie.
If you are putting together a dessert box, these sit well next to Chinese Date Cake or the Western-fusion style Pumpkin Chestnut Pound Cake.
Authoritative References
For those interested in the science behind the “short” texture of these cookies, the Science of Cooking provides an excellent breakdown of how fats interfere with gluten formation. Additionally, understanding the protein content in flours is crucial for Chinese baking; King Arthur Baking offers a definitive guide on flour protein types.
FAQ & Cooking Tips
Q: Can I use olive oil? A: I don’t recommend it. Olive oil has a strong flavor that clashes with the delicate egg and flour taste. Stick to corn, canola, or vegetable oil.
Q: Why didn’t my cookies crack? A: This usually happens if you forgot the baking soda or if your oven wasn’t hot enough. The rapid rise from the heat and the chemical reaction is what causes the cracks.
Q: Can I add walnuts? A: Absolutely! To make the nut version, finely chop 50g of roasted walnuts and fold them into the dough in Step 3.
Q: Are these similar to Pork Floss Buns? A: No, Pork Floss Buns use a soft yeast dough (Tangzhong method usually), whereas Tao Su is a chemically leavened shortbread. They are completely different textures.
Nutrition Information (Estimate)
- Serving Size: 1 Cookie (based on 12 cookies)
- Calories: ~165 kcal
- Fat: 8g
- Carbohydrates: 20g
- Protein: 2g
- Sodium: 65mg
- Sugar: 8g
Disclaimer: Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate. Garnishes and optional ingredients are not included. Actual values vary based on product brands used.
Chinese Shortbread Cookies (Tao Su)
Equipment
- Baking Sheet
- Parchment paper
- Kitchen Scale
Ingredients
Dry Ingredients
- 200 g cake flour (low gluten flour) approx. 1 3/4 cups + 2 tbsp
- 3 g baking powder approx. 3/4 tsp
- 2 g baking soda approx. 1/2 tsp
Wet Ingredients
- 90 g corn oil or any neutral oil; approx. 1/2 cup minus 1 tbsp
- 90 g granulated sugar approx. 1/2 cup minus 1 tbsp
- 1 large egg beaten
Topping
- 1 egg yolk for brushing
- 1 tsp black sesame seeds
Instructions
- Preheat your oven to 355°F (180°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
- In a mixing bowl, combine the corn oil, the beaten whole egg, and the sugar. Whisk vigorously until the mixture is emulsified and the sugar is mostly dissolved.
- Mix the cake flour, baking soda, and baking powder together. Sift this dry mixture directly into the wet oil mixture.
- Using a spatula or your clean hands, gently fold and press the flour into the liquid to form a dough. Do not knead or over-mix; stop as soon as no dry flour is visible.
- Take a small piece of dough (about walnut size, ~25g), roll it into a ball, place it on the baking sheet, and gently press it flat with your palm. Repeat with remaining dough, spacing them 2 inches apart.
- Brush the top of each flattened cookie with the egg yolk and sprinkle a few black sesame seeds in the center.
- Bake in the preheated oven for 16 minutes, or until the surface is golden brown and cracked. Allow to cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes before handling.
Notes
Food Safety & Tips
- Allergens: This recipe contains Eggs and Wheat (Gluten). While corn oil is used, ensure it is processed in a facility safe for your specific allergies.
- Mixing Tip: To achieve the signature "Su" (crumbly) texture, avoid using an electric mixer. Over-mixing develops gluten, which makes the cookies tough instead of crisp. Hand mixing is best.
- Egg Wash: You can use a whole egg wash if you prefer, but pure egg yolk gives a richer golden color.
- Nutrition Disclaimer: Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate. Garnishes and optional ingredients are not included.
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